Textile Knowledge: Development And Application Of Nonwovens For Clothing

In people's consciousness, nonwovens are a kind of products with simple processing technology and low grade. The real technology of nonwovens used in clothing can be simple and complicated, and the products can be either high-grade or low-grade.

Generally speaking, the processing flow of garment accessories is relatively short and the process is simple. The process of garment fabric is long and the process is complex, especially for the finishing technology.

For example, nonwovens and fuzzing products are made of nonwoven needling and / or stitching technology, and then processed by needle punching or textile finishing.

The development of nonwoven fabrics in China is still in its infancy. At present, it is only limited to some special fields of disposable clothing, such as Spunlaced medical protective clothing, SMS medical protective clothing, etc. the development of ordinary civilian clothing fabrics is almost zero.

In fact, clothing nonwovens can be processed into products similar to traditional woven fabrics or knitted fabrics, and can also be combined with other processing technologies to produce fabrics with unique styles such as three-dimensional, traditional woven or knitting processes.

Its technical starting point can be high and low, the product style is unique, and the variety is flexible.

    水刺非织造布

Spunlace is also called jet jetting net and jet net.

It is a late development of Nonwovens Technology, which uses the high pressure fine beam flow to act on (vertical direction) the net of the metal screen net, so that the fiber moves downward under the action of hydraulic clearance, so as to achieve entanglement between fibers (similar to needling), so as to strengthen the mesh.

The nonwovens produced by jet net spraying method are soft, bulky, hygroscopicity, and basically have no fiber chips. Some nonwovens produced by it can be used in synthetic leather, shirts and home decoration fields.

The wet spunlaced nonwovens do not lose their chips, and the tensile strength is two times that of dry spunlaced nonwovens, especially for clothing.

Spunlaced nonwovens are widely used in fiber materials, such as polyester, nylon, polypropylene, viscose fiber and so on.

The typical Spunlaced spunbonded nonwoven fabric produced by Freudenberg, Germany, is called Evolon. It is a fine filament made of composite spunbonded filament yarn, which is continuously impacted by a high pressure water needle, so that the filament can be split into different fineness (0.05~2.5dtex).

Evolon spunbonded nonwoven fabric has excellent mechanical properties, high moisture permeability and breathability and soft handle.

After finishing the product, Evolon has good washing properties and excellent drapability as well as ordinary woven fabrics and knitted fabrics.

It is introduced that 70g/m2's Evolon nonwovens can be made T-shirts, and 150g/m2 can be made into sportswear.

The University of England, the international wool Bureau and the BFF nonwovens company have successfully developed Spunlaced wool nonwovens with good resilience. They are subject to 30 thousand bending without damage or breakage. They can conduct wet steam and water repellency, and can regulate heat. They can be used as ideal sportswear fabrics, and are being developed for making trousers and jackets.

At present, the application of microfiber Spunlaced cloth on the top garment leather has a dominant trend. The garment leather made of it has good breathability, moisture permeability and drapability, soft handle, lighter leather, brighter and brighter color, and full and even fluff. It is good for design and tailoring. It can be washed with water, mildew and moth.

    针刺类非织造布

Needling method is the use of external force, through the hook of the needle to make the fiber in the net entangled together into a felt fabric.

The feeding curtain of the needling machine is fed the fluffy net into the bedplate, and the needle plate with the needle is moved up and down, so that the needles with barbed needles are needled up and down on the fiber net.

Some fibers are moved by the barbed motion of the needles from the top of the net to the net or the bottom of the net, so that fibers can be interwoven and reinforced.

The fiber net after acupuncture is output by another pair of output rolls.

In addition to one-way acupuncture, webs can also be used to improve the surface quality of products.

In addition, fancy needling can be done to produce a specific fancy effect on the surface of the product.

In the process of acupuncture, the main factors affecting the quality of products are needle penetration depth, needle density, needle type and needle arrangement.

Needling method is mainly suitable for producing medium thickness nonwovens.

Besides the unique style, needle punched garment nonwovens cost much less than traditional woven and knitted products.

For example, imitation plain suede fabric, fabric felt elastic fabric and needled wool and fleece products, the processing cost is only 1/3 of the traditional textile or knitted products.

Needle punched nonwovens can be used for surface modification of high-grade leather base cloth, so as to achieve the purpose of fine surface without needle marks and intensity.

    缝编法非织造布

The stitched woven nonwovens belong to the mechanical reinforcement method of the mesh fabric, which is made of warp knitted coil structure and reinforced by mechanical reinforcement.

It is made up of stitched yarns (or fiber bundles in the hook net), which are strengthened by looping mechanisms, such as mesh, yarn layer or non-woven material layer, such as foam plastics, film and so on.

In addition, it can also incorporate coil structures into base cloth (woven or stitched nonwovens) to make Terry effect and become Terry type nonwovens.

Stitched woven nonwovens are similar to traditional textiles in appearance and feel. Many stitched product sheets are difficult to distinguish from woven or knitted fabrics from appearance. Unlike other nonwoven fabrics, they have a typical mesh structure.

It can be used to make western style clothes, jackets, coats, fur coats, etc.

Chemically bonded nonwovens

Chemical bonding reinforcement is the most widely used and widely used method for reinforcing nonwoven fabrics in recent years.