Clothing Style And Clothing Structure Drawing

The correct understanding of design intent is generally considered from five aspects: the name of the product, the style and structure, the outline, the shape and the use of the line, the relationship between the components of the garment, and the specific size and proportion.

(1) name of species

First of all, we need to know the basic categories of clothing, the gender and age of wearing objects, and the important contents of seasons, regions, uses and ways of dressing.

From the perspective of sex and age of the wearing objects, there are obvious differences between men's and women's clothing, men's and women's clothing, clothing for middle and old age, children's clothing and so on.

Judging from the seasons and regions, people's clothing is divided into spring and autumn clothing, summer wear and winter clothing due to climate change throughout the year.

Take winter as an example: in the north in order to resist the need of cold, the material of the coat should be thick, and the clothes should be put outside the cotton padded clothes, so the amount of relaxation should be large. In the south, when the air temperature is higher, the coat should not be too thick. When wearing it, it is usually used outside the suit to resist wind and sand, so the amount of relaxation is relatively small.

(2) style structure

Style structure, also known as clothing pattern, refers to the clothing shape structure reflects the clothing components or parts combination form.

Sleeves or shoulder sleeves, sleeves and body combinations with flat or double seam structures, with split or double seam, and single breasted, double breasted, double breasted, half size, half open, open, straight, open, plush, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open. For example, whether the front and back pieces are waist or waist width, whether they are to receive or divide, whether they are collar or door collar in collar, whether they are lapel or no collar; they are round in sleeves.

The characteristics of the parts that can be observed directly in the garment shape are all the characteristics of the style.

(3) outline

Contour is also called modeling.

Different shape profiles have different modeling characteristics.

The common ones are H, A, V, T and O.

Type H has the characteristics of peace, solemnity, fluency, and no close fit.

Type X is graceful, graceful, and embodies the natural beauty of the female body.

Type A has a stable sense of stability, full of youthful vigor, tight and loose.

Type V has exaggerated shoulders, showing masculine charm.

The T type has a simple, generous and natural crepe like loose body.

Type O has exaggerated shoulders, contracted pendulum and exaggerated and gentle displays.

From the above characteristics, we know that the outline of the garment is not equal to the shape of the human body. Among them, the clothing that directly suits the human body's lines and charm is a tight fitting body shape, and the fashion of the times is created by exaggerating and modifying the human body.

(4) line modeling and use

The garment piece is made up of different straight lines and curves. These lines may be contour lines, they may be various provinces, seams, pleat and decorative lines, or they may be the dividing line of clothes. If we want to distinguish between functional line or decorative line, we should know that the functional segmentation lines often include some provincial lines in the segmentation line, and the decorative segmentation lines usually segment the clothes and then sew them.

(5) the relationship among the components of clothing and their specific size and proportion.

Clothing is often composed of different pieces of clothing, and these films have a certain proportion relationship with each other.

For clothing length, the waist length, hip height, height and so on are benchmarks. Shoulder width is usually based on the actual shoulder width as the standard. The size of the bag is large, and the chest girth is the most important benchmark. For example, the bag pocket on the bottom of the waist line is large, men's clothing is generally about B/10+5cm, and the women's clothing is generally B/10+4cm or so. For the pouch under the waist line, the men's pocket is usually about B/10+6cm, and the women's wear is generally about B/10+5cm. The length of the bag is generally 1.2 times larger than that of the bag. The height of the bag is usually 1/3 of the bag length, and the location of the bag is usually located at about 7-8cm below the waist.

Clothing is composed of different materials through a combination of process means. Different fabrics have different properties due to different raw materials, yarn, fabric organization and processing methods, which affect the drawing of clothing structure, mainly in three aspects: material texture, shrinkage, warp and weft thread.

Different materials have different properties. For example, silk fabrics are light and soft, and wool fabrics are thick and strong. Therefore, when the silk fabrics are cut, they should be shortened and relaxed in order to suit the natural elongation and contraction of the slanting silk. For thinner fabrics, the width of the stitch should be widened so as to prevent the need for yarn removal. For fabrics with inverted wool and floral fabrics, they should be marked on the pattern when drawing the garment structure, so as to avoid any mistakes.

Shrinkage of materials also affects the drawing of clothing structure. Shrinkage of materials includes water shrinkage, ironing shrinkage and blanching shrinkage. Therefore, clothing structure drawing should be processed correspondingly. For trousers, as long as the washing shrinkage and ironing shrinkage are added to the sample, the ironing shrinkage and blanching shrinkage can be added to the front garment pattern.

The warp and weft threads of the material are elastic, flexible and easy to extend.

Generally, trousers, clothing length, sleeve length, waist waistline, roll bar and horn skirt are generally inclined.

In the process of garment structure drawing, due to the different garment technology, the amount of hem is different.

Commonly used seam structure has split, come and go seam, inside and outside seam, etc., the seam structure is 1cm, the seam seam is 1.4cm, if the width of the seam is 0.6cm, the seam should be 0.7-0.8cm seam, the seam should be 1.5cm seam.

The different processing of hem also affects the drawing of clothing structure. Usually there are doors, inner buttons, skirts, edges, cuffs, feet, collar, sleeves and so on.

For doors and inner buttons, there are two forms: adding noodles and connecting noodles. When the door and the inner lip are straight, it is usually used to pick up the noodles, and the doors and the inner buttons are not straight, such as suits.

For armholes and collar necklines, there are three forms of welt, flanging and rolling. For the armhole with a welt, only 1cm stitch is required at the armhole. For flanged sleeves, flanging width is only required at the armhole. For the sleeves with rolls, no seam is required at the armhole.

For shoulders that need shoulder padded clothing, it is necessary to reduce the inclination of shoulders. For clothing that needs to be added to clothing, it is slightly larger than the face pattern in making the pattern, so as not to prevent the lining from affecting the appearance of the garment.