NE TIGER&Nbsp; "Luxury" Supply Chain Of Customized Garments.

From Cannes Film Festival to China

And through interviews, we also witnessed how the stars' unique gowns were made.

Move the clothing shop into the clubhouse.

"The clubhouse is divided into 3 spaces, one is the exhibition hall, the other is the design room, and the busiest part is the plate making and garment making workshop.

For the mass production of garment brands with standardized production, the merging of the 3 parts is obviously impossible.

Beijing, Wangfujing office, a space of hundreds of square meters - it is hard to imagine that such a busy market is hidden in NE TIGER luxury club, there are not many production lines, there are only a few plate making workshop.

NE TIGER is currently the largest enterprise in China to customize Chinese clothing.

Because the price of custom made clothing ranges from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of people, its target customers are basically Chinese movie stars and dress rich tycoons.

It is also precisely because of this that the biggest problem of custom-made clothing is to make communication and modification at all times. It is necessary for designers to keep in touch with print makers and Turner at any time, and to guide the process, so that customers can learn the production process, process and procedure of clothing at any time, and control costs appropriately.

Usually, customers have to make reservations 3 months in advance before they need to wear costumes on major occasions.

The whole process of customization will take two months, and all the guests will receive the custom process notice first. There will be a customized process according to their needs, which is generally divided into three steps: first meeting, meeting and fitting again.

During the first meeting, the guests will choose the style and fabric through the interview.

The designer makes sketches for the customer's requirements and gives them to the plate making master to consider the technical details.

From the aspects of color, texture, integrity and subsequent processing, we can identify fabrics and accessories that are consistent with creativity.

When you meet again, the guests will see the designers and craftsmen of NE TIGER. At this time, the guests will see the results and try out the first made white garments and the semi finished products of the high quality custom tailor. When the first try is done, the guests will communicate with the designers and technicians to make changes.

At the end of the day, guests can try on the advanced custom dress products.

According to the press, there are more than 600 members of NE TIGER, who make 5 to 6 sets of clothes each year, and do dozens or even dozens of them.

Reporters in Beijing Wangfujing NE TIGER see that the club is divided into 3 spaces, one is the exhibition hall, the other is the design room, the busiest part is the plate making and garment making workshop.

For the standardized production of bulk clothing brands, it is obviously impossible to combine the 3 parts.

In the print and production room of the Chinese dress, the human model is divided into 3 numbers 4, 6 and 8. When the customer decides the good clothes, the designer will carry out detailed measurements for the customer, then carry on the thin cloth paste on the human model, and finally clone the human model into the customer's body.

These "models" stand in the production room, and finally form a very interesting picture, some of them are small and thin, and some waist is bloated. In the face of different producers, the humanoid models slowly wear their clothes.

It is hard to see such a fine plate making scene in a mass production plant.

But the second time the customer came to the club was not a finished product, but a sample made of white cloth.

Because the fabric used in Chinese clothing is extremely expensive, the use of ordinary fabrics to make sample clothing allows customers to design and modify cost savings again.

Special teams control folk artists.

"The same theme, folk artists every time the color of embroidery is not consistent, each embroidered pattern will also change with their own inspiration.

This often leads to a situation that is inconsistent with the color, theme and even style of the whole dress. "

In fact, for the process of customizing clothing, the most difficult to control is not the machine but the human.

Unlike traditional evening gowns, Chinese clothing is characterized by obvious Chinese elements.

In addition, designers will add personal elements to Chinese clothing on the basis of the original samples according to the requirements of customers.

For advanced clothing customization, the embroidered piece with Chinese elements is the finishing touch of the whole garment, and it also embodies the added value.

Most of the embroidery on Chinese clothes is made by folk artists on embroidery pieces, and then embroidered on the clothes.

In order to keep the original flavor of the embroidery, the designer will make some space for the folk artists to finish the embroidery, and have some flexibility in color matching.

However, soon, a problem appeared. On the same theme, folk artists were not consistent in each embroidery color, and each embroidered pattern would change with their inspiration.

In this way, the color, theme and even style of the whole dress often appear inconsistent.

For the advanced clothing customization, the cost of "manpower" is undoubtedly the highest. "For the publication of the 2011 spring and summer high quality custom clothing series, we have created the Qiang embroidery with thousand years of ancient Qiang flavor. For this reason, I went to Wenchuan Qiang village two times."

The theme of NE / TIGER2011 was heavenly stems and earthly branches, and the Qiang embroidery techniques were introduced.

After reaching the design agreement with the customers, the designer will send embroidery designs to the Qiang village far away from Sichuan. Then, folk artists will embroider unique works according to the ideas of Beijing designers.

In the design, Zhang Zhifeng has been emphasizing manual embroidery, which can keep the original flavor of embroidery and avoid the same industrialization.

However, in the entire customization process, communication with folk artisans has become the most difficult part to control.

"I risked the danger of road collapse and went to Wenchuan Qiang village to do something about communication."

Zhang Zhifeng said.

NE TIGER staff first found the best old artists in embroidery at the qiangzhai village.

They set up a embroidery team for NE TIGER and embroidered them according to orders.

"The first thing we have to do is to change these folk artists' idea of Qiang embroidery."

Zhang Zhifeng said, "these folk artists have been engaged in embroidery for many years, but most of their embroidery works are tourist souvenirs, which are very rough.

The first thing I want to tell them is that what we want is quality, and the indoctrination of this idea is not easy.

Therefore, the northeast tiger skin grass pays the old artists more production costs, hoping that they can embroider different works. "But it is still very difficult. The old artists will find it strange that they can only get more income by slowly embroidering."

For advanced clothing customization, "fine is very important, I have repeatedly told them to keep the rough style, but in every detail, more meticulously.

It's hard for them to understand this.

These folk handcraftsmen are often too old to read or even read the blueprint. "So we gave them the drawings. People with poor skills did not know how to enlarge the patterns when they were embroidered, and the proportion was often wrong."

Zhang Zhifeng often had a headache. "Later, we simply sent the same proportion of drawings from Beijing express, and even the frame of embroidery has been printed out."

However, this is not enough to solve the problem. In the color matching of embroidery, there are still many mistakes. For this reason, the company has to bear great losses.

In addition, mountain express logistics and other links are not satisfactory.

Finally, Zhang Zhifeng made the highest cost decision to set up a special team responsible for the process management of embroidery.

"We will have special visitors to visit the old artists regularly and guide their embroidery, so that they can not only control the quality of the embroidery pieces, but also make the production time of the embroidery pieces."

Because folk artists only finish their work in their own homes, the work team must go to the old arts families one by one, so as to achieve the most direct communication.

At the just concluded international fashion week in China, the NE TIGER2011 spring and summer high quality custom clothes series was just released, and dozens of orders were handed to Zhang Zhifeng. A famous violinist, after watching the fashion show, gave Zhang Zhifeng a big hug. The violinist likes to perform in a Chinese dress because the embroidery on his dress can make his arm move more beautifully when he plays the violin.