What Is The True Appearance Of The Model Group After The Bright?

How do people imagine models?

Gisele Bundchen, Kate Moss, Miranda Kerr, Naomi Campbell, or "big cousin" Liu Wen and the angel of Victoria have already satisfied most people's fantasies about "model" career, bright and positive.

But behind the recent Dolce&Gabbana incident, another look of the model has begun to be reexamined.

Whether they are spectators or models themselves, they begin to know what they are going to experience on their way to fame.

When a foreign model contributed anonymously to Dazed magazine, her vivid and mature writing touched many people, and made people feel the helpless of the model group.

The Chinese model, Zuo Yi, who once made a promotional film for Dolce&Gabbana recently explained the details of the cooperation in micro-blog, and said: "I never imagined that the cooperation with the brand almost killed my modeling career."

When the angels wear a silk robe and eat fruits in the background to show their sexes, more models will be shouted at the backstage of the crowd: "We need a body!"

What is the true appearance of the model group after the bright?

Fashion models

Model Liu Bingbing still remember that day she spent two hours to arrive at the interview place.

Just standing firm, the director of the corner picked up his eyelids and sent her a red card in 0.5 seconds: "yes, thank you."

This kind of "one eye fixed life and death" moment includes the omnidirectional judgement of the aspect, proportion and style of the selected person.

The losers usually have no way of refuting the fact that fashion modeling is a key standard of brand adoption from the beginning of its career.

This trait is so subtle that no one can predict and catch it. As Hollywood famous screenwriter Wiiliam Goldman said, all success is a fluke and all failures are unexpected.

Pay is not necessarily a return, leading to higher mobility in the model industry.

In addition, the diversification of market demand makes it more and more difficult to model, while net red and stars often jump in.

Under the vicissitudes of industries, the name "supermodel" has become more remote.

Even if the survival situation is difficult and confused, there are still new people willing to rush ahead.

Ashely Mears, an American sociologist who wrote fashion models for several years after fieldwork, wrote "beautiful price: rules of the model industry".

In her book, she interpreted this phenomenon with her own experience.

"I can't find an excellent opportunity to leave. I always feel that the next corner will meet with the" big opportunity "that makes me famous.

Liu Bingbing is a lucky dog among new people.

In less than half a year, she has participated in Tommy Hilfiger and Miu Miu's big show in Shanghai, and she has filmed "ELLEMEN" and "fashion bazaar".

Three months ago, she took the first female model group in the IMC Shanghai international model competition, and was signed by IMG Models, one of the world's largest model brokers, and recently went to Paris men's clothing week and Gao Ding Zhou for several shows.

This is the standard "fashion model" road, and the "business model" is almost two parallel lines.

Fashion models often haunt the show, magazine blockbuster and brand advertising. They have an avant-garde and internationally recognised appearance, and customers have strict height and proportion requirements for them.

Liu Wen and Lv Yan, which are well known, belong to this category.

Business models are usually beautiful and handsome in the eyes of the public. They are not very tall and physically demanding, such as Taobao models.

More models of larger brokerage firms are being developed on the way to fashion models, because this is the most fashionable way to become supermodels.

But outsiders usually confuse the two.

Chen Hong Kun, a fashion model who has been in fashion for ten years, knows this: "people often think that models earn money easily, and they come in more than ten thousand a month and go out to drive luxury cars.

In fact, the income mechanism of fashion models is very unstable, and most people get the same income throughout the year, which is no different from ordinary workers.

When it comes to the international fashion week, models need to pay their own money for interviews abroad.

Air tickets, accommodation and meals are counted at least tens of thousands.

As for the reward, apart from Gucci, Dior, Chanel, Hermes blue blood brand, other brands can not give much money.

If it's a show for a small brand designer, sometimes it can only get hundreds of dollars, or even just a ready-made garment.

In China, fashion models will be proud of fashion magazines, but the rewards are far less than commercial activities.

Business models are different.

Because of "no pick" customers, they have more job opportunities and win in terms of money.

Chen Hong Jin had heard that a Guangzhou model had spent 200 thousand cosmetic surgery before making a Taobao model. After returning home, he worked hard and bought 3 suites in one year.

Such cases are not uncommon in business models.

If there is any difficulty in Taobao models, it may be that the workload is too heavy, forcing some special skills.

For example, Ann day, after 85, she used 15 seconds to change the 30 posture of the extreme efficiency, becoming one of Taobao's most popular models for middle-aged and elderly women, and the working hours are also calculated in seconds.

In an interview with Qianjiang Evening News in 2017, she said she not only bought a house in the country, but also had two suites in Thailand, so the income level was only moderate in the circle.

"Taobao models don't care what clothes they wear, so they can take the quantity," Chen Hung Kun said. "But fashion models are not limited.

Sorry, because we want to have better development, we have to pick brands.

But at the same time, we have to survive. Sometimes we have to bow to five meters. "

Subject to the mutual restraint between social status, past experience and future development, once choosing to be a fashion model, it is hard to reduce their customer standards.

Because only by constantly co operating with big brands and famous media can fame be achieved. When fame reaches a certain level, it may be able to step on the "supermodel" step.

The benefits of becoming a supermodel, needless to say, are true fame and gain.

Outside the circle, they often live in their legendary life: supermodel Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. If the salary is less than ten thousand dollars a day, they will not get out of bed.

From 1970s to now, supermodels often appear in the Forbes rich list.

To achieve this ultimate goal, brokers and models must gamble, and this process may take ten years.

According to Mears, from the perspective of economics, fashion models pursue "symbolic capital".

Despite its low economic returns, it will succeed in the long run because of its high reputation.

In the long run, stable business will hurt its symbolic capital in secret, but in the long run it will hinder economic returns, so producers must have the incentive to reject economic incentives.

Mears once met a young male model named JD who failed because he broke this principle.

Benefiting from the popular appearance condition, JD just went smoothly, which convinced him that the model was an easy job to earn money, so he chose the customer only by the salary level, and ruled out the big job that the customary gave the newcomer a lower salary.

As a result, he rejected the industry's important Dazed magazine, i-D magazine and even Lssey Miyake's cooperation opportunities, and repeatedly refused to participate in the show, and was blacklisted by Dazed.

There were male models who took part in the Dolce&Gabbana advertisement and received only $800. He told the agent when he tucked up, but he was ironically satiried: "you need it more than Dolce&Gabbana needs you."

Because the voice of high fashion is still in the hands of European brands, they dominate the global fashion trend every quarter.

Even if domestic brands pay generally more than international brands, models are willing to go abroad.

"Nowadays, model abroad is like gilding overseas. Competition is fierce.

But in order to compete for better resources, models are willing to go even if they pay.

Chen Hongjin said.

Chen Hongjin felt that he was like a "negative case" in his experience of going abroad.

At first, she boarded all the fashion magazines in China, but she was short of foreign fire.

"Although others think I am a good model, there are no outstanding achievements in the world."

She said.

This became an impassable wall between her and the supermodel.

Under such industry consensus, the road to "supermodel" is traceable.

First quality, then quantity.

Li Chao, general manager of Shanghai Longteng elite model broker company, said: "the essential condition for becoming a supermodel is very clear.

First of all, there must be enough experience in mainstream fashion magazines.

Second, there are enough performance experience in China, including the show of personal charm and jewelry show.

Third, it is better to shoot a brand commercial advertisement, an electricity supplier or a picture album.

With these experiences, the models are more suitable for foreign brokers.

After having the qualifications to go abroad, the models should fill in the CVS with the number of cooperative brands as much as possible.

But the early development of the market is hard.

In the beautiful price tag, whether or not models can be recognized depends on buyers, critics, middlemen and consumers.

Brokers also don't know which shapes attract customers. Similarly, customers do not know which models can successfully help sell products.

In fact, the personality of a model is also very important.

In the reality show "the national super model competition" founded by the previous generation of supermodel Tyra Banks, there was a very good female model to interview. The reason for the rejection finally was: "you are too good, but we can not cooperate."

This made her feel confused and was laughed at by other players.

Later, she realized that the other side actually felt that her character was too dull.

It can be seen that luck plays an important role in the career of a model.

Although there are very few "beloved of fate", most people still have to endure for a long time, because this is a process of market recognition.

However, once the nodes who accumulate resources in the early stage can enjoy the dividends brought by Matthew effect, that is, successful people will gather more success.

This means that even if the brand does not like the shape of a model, it will be persuaded by her full resume.

"The right to choose enables investors to anticipate the actions of other investors, triggering group behavior, and participants will ignore their information and emulate the decisions of others.

This is what economists call the information cascade flow, "Mears said." this phenomenon is often seen in such speculative markets as art, fashion and finance.

The obvious example is that the height of the supermodel Kate Moss is only 1 meters and 7, but there is no fashion brand in the fashion world.

Ju Xiaowen is not tall in the industry, but because of the Chanel video ads, he quickly became one of the hottest Chinese supermodels.

Too many unstable factors have prevented many models from setting up too big flag for short-term goals.

Liu Bingbing's wish to win the male model group Yang Yi in the same match is simple: "I hope I can go to a country and take a fashion week to win a match, so it's best to play a show with Jin Dachuan."

Impetuous new people

Yang Yi could have realized this desire last November. He and Jin Dachuan were both selected for Dolce&Gabbana Shanghai big show, but what happened later is known to all.

And this is the first time he has participated in the international brand show.

This also confirms the degree of instability in the fashion industry, which is so serious that brands and models will interact with each other.

At that time, the Chinese model for Dolce&Gabbana's promotional films almost broke his promise.

In this fierce competition environment, the most difficult way for a model to overcome is mentality.

Li Chao said: "some young models have bigger mood swings, which will affect their work."

Some people even learned about the real situation of the model industry before signing it and gave up.

Most people's mental instability occurs after work.

In addition to being denied every second in the interview, the competition pressure of the same generation is similar.

Those who go abroad and do not go abroad, do magazines and do not photograph, take many people and single films, have different mentality.

Li Chao could only explain them more.

"The height is all given by mom and dad. Customers like you to use you. If they do not meet the needs of their customers, it may be difficult to have a good development or a relatively short career life."

There are also models who will become impetuous after small achievements, but they may be replaced by new ones.

"Now is the era of fast consumption, and models are no exception.

Liu Wen and Qin Shupei can not remember much longer, and the time they can be remembered is getting shorter and shorter.

Chen Hongjin said.

Fashion editors and designers are reluctant to always use old faces.

Chen Hongjin shot a lot of magazines between 2011 and 2013, when her strong woman looked very popular.

Slowly, she obviously felt the market wind changed.

The image of young, Sprite and weird little girl who is popular with the public has begun to gain the upper hand.

"Now it's easy to say who's a supermodel, but I think it's the best seller for some time."

This is because consumer demand is largely unknown, so the model market has been keeping flowing.

The market life cycle is extremely changeable, which makes the model group vulnerable.

They can easily lose everything quickly and huge, just as quickly and dramatically win everything.

According to the data in the beautiful price, most models have a career shorter than 5 years.

In the pformation of models, in addition to Zhang Liang and Xi Mengyao, such a small number of stars and net red models, most of them did model training.

According to the survey conducted by flint last year, the number of people who pferred to model training was 88%.

Zhao Jiatong, the champion of the second season, who has fallen in love with supermodels, has not suffered any career crisis, but she is considering changing careers.

She studied manicure in 2017 and went to psychology tutors in 2018. These areas are completely out of touch with models.

She is well versed in the rules of the modeling industry and is receptive to it.

"I think this is a good way to see everything.

If you don't speak well, you won't fight for your own interests. "

When she joined the reality show in 2015, she did not feel that she had made many friends in the competition.

In order to ensure a sustainable talent mechanism, model brokerage firms have also expanded the scope of selection.

Usually, a modeling agency will recruit models through regular competitions, mainly for model training schools and fashion show majors.

With the development of new media, micro-blog, Xiao Hong, jitter and other platforms can also find many good seedlings.

Some foreign brokerage firms even set up positions for social media scout.

In the past two years, the students of the Institute of physical culture, foreign languages and media in China have also become the focus of attention.

In recent three years, brokers have gradually formed a systematic retraining system along with the increase in the number of "irregular training" people.

New models will be trained in basic skills such as steps, lenses, modeling, film and television performances, etc.

In order to make them better control of career development, brokers will teach them how to deal with customers and media.

In the international market, models need to learn English.

The first course will take about two to three months, and if it passes smoothly, the model will be "graduated" and assigned to the broker.

Based on the specific development direction of the model, brokers will specifically target them.

"Training is directed and not widely distributed," said Xu Wen, director of the cultural brokerage department of Shanghai flint model Broker Co. Ltd. "after the corresponding positioning of the model, the training of the model will be based on the development of different directions. The method varies from person to person.

Now the quality of models is becoming more and more comprehensive.

Usually, a model that is more consistent with the aesthetic appearance of the public will be more suitable for filming in China.

If you look at international aesthetics, good enough figure and good English language talent, it's more suitable for going abroad.

After screening, each broker will bring 5 to 8 models to take charge of their publicity, shooting and training.

One to many will inevitably be short of energy.

Therefore, in order to control the number of people, when the new blood comes in, the brokerage company will also carry out the elimination system at regular intervals.

Li Chao takes Longteng as an example: "every year we will eliminate some models that do not appear for a long time, with low degree of cooperation and low interview rate.

This is also to give models a certain sense of pressure, let them take seriously the work.

A broker who is "tied to a rope" with the model.

In fact, apart from the selection and training, there are many things that model brokers do and even become mentors in their lives.

If Liu Bingbing doesn't speak, it's hard to guess her age.

She looks like a cold version of Liu Wen, with a mature appearance plus 1 meters 76 height, which makes it impossible to believe that she is only 16 years old.

Yang Yi was only 22 years old, but he always felt that he was a little older.

This is normal in the modeling circles, and dealing with them will have the illusion that 00 of them have taken over the world.

Liu Bingbing included Xu Wen with several young models.

As for their affairs, she had to be careful to know who she knew every day, or where she went, and what changes had taken place in her figure.

"Because most of them are children who struggle alone in Shanghai.

She said.

As for the relationship between brokers and models, there has been a consensus in the industry: models often need brokers to become their most powerful fans, otherwise they will not be able to move on because they have almost all the work resources on their hands.

"It's common to say that brokers and models are like grasshoppers tied to a rope, and we will be happy when they are ready."

Li Chao said.

Xu Wen felt that some models might regard brokers as people who decide their career destiny, but she often jokes that she is more like a teaching director.

Because of the existence of interest, the model sometimes does not trust his own broker, or even feels himself squeezing himself.

Chen Hongjin is also deeply aware of this matter.

In 2017, she turned to be a model agent for Longteng elite and a model at the same time.

Before that, her idea was to "kill or be a broker, because the broker was very tired."

This is indeed the case.

After becoming a broker, she changed the 64GB's mobile phone to 258GB, which contained all the models' data, modules, videos and works.

"I really appreciate the manager who helped me get the job before, because the workload was really big," she said. "It's very important that the broker recommended you to the customer, but some models may not know what the broker did in order to help him win the opportunity."

She believes that if there is a misunderstanding between models and brokers, it may be due to information asymmetry.

For example, models usually do not know their specific quotations, but can only know a range.

Because when brokers talk about cooperation with customers, they involve more content. Sometimes they may be the packaging price for pporting multiple models. Sometimes they may sign long-term cooperation.

Therefore, as a middleman's role, communication is the biggest difficulty for brokers.

"We are almost pure Party B in this circle. Any industry related to it may become our Party A, and we need to find out the different needs of people in every industry or group."

Li Chao said.

And there are many qualities to be a real broker.

"First of all, we must have the ability to study hard, wear, fashion trends, photography, etc." Xu Wen said, "second, we must love models.

We must be like a parent to guide him.

The last thing is to separate the bad things from the models in the industry.

But when it comes to problems with young models, brokers are still helpless.

Chen Hongjin found that the present model is not as good as before.

"I have observed that many of the industry's models are not diligent because they have not yet thought clearly what they really want, or that they are only thinking about it."

Han Yinghua feels that there are too many bad habits in young models.

She has trained Li Ai, cuckoo and Lv Yan. She is already 72 years old. She is called "Han Yi" by her fans. She has the nickname of "poison tongue and godmother" because of her straightforward speech and upright personality.

Now, Han Yi is training children's mold.

"Young models do not have their own career path planning.

Now I do not accept 17, 8 or 20 years old people. Their bad habits are already overwhelming. They can not be changed.

Most of the bad things she refers to is the details of life and character, such as no motivation to lose weight, smoking, lack of etiquette, attitude is not correct, do not know how to treat people.

And these seemingly not related to business are precisely the qualities that many professional models lack.

"Being a model is not just about being tall, but also having tough physical strength and strong mind, good temperament and behavior."

She said.

In her view, the lack of fighting spirit in many industries is the most lacking.

Now as long as someone trains her, she will say, "if you want to be a model, you can find someone else. Don't look for me. I only train supermodels."