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Famous Brand Clothing Is Drug-Related? -- Fashion Industry: The Fashion Lake That Has Been Disturbed By The "Report"

2011/10/2 13:13:00 27

Famous ClothesDrug-Related ReportsFashion Lakes

In August 23rd, the international environmental protection organization "Greenpeace" released the "fashion poison 2: poison hidden in clothing - the investigation of toxic and harmful substances in global brand clothing" (hereinafter referred to as "report two"). In July 13th, it also released the "fashion poison - global clothing brand China Water pollution survey" (hereinafter referred to as "report 1").


The two report covers a number of international and

domestic

Famous textile and garment enterprises, the "famous brand clothing drug-related" argument has been widely circulated for a while, which has aroused consumers' concern and caused the relevant enterprises to be in danger.


Amplified "environmental hormone"


"Report 1" investigated two large textile enterprises: the YOUNGOR textile industrial city located in the Yangtze River Delta and the Zhongshan Guotai dyeing and finishing Co., Ltd. located in the Pearl River Delta.

Report two surveyed 78 samples of 15 well-known clothing brands, including sportswear, casual wear and footwear, which were purchased in 18 countries, including China, the United Kingdom and Argentina.

China

Bangladesh, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Thailand and other 13 textile countries, of which 28 products are produced in China.


The widespread concern of the report is nonylphenol (NP), an environmental hormone that interferes with endocrine and affects reproductive system.

Even if the number of environmental hormones is very small, it will cause endocrine imbalance of some organisms, leading to dysfunctions of reproduction and so on.

NP is decomposed from nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether (NPE). NPE is often used as a surfactant in textile production and decomposes into toxic NP in water.


It is understood that in some countries, the use of NPE has been restricted for more than 20 years, and NP has been listed as the "primary toxic and hazardous substance" under the EU Water Framework Directive.

China has recently joined NP and NPE in China.

strict

List of toxic chemicals that restrict import and export, but there is no provision for its use and emissions in China.


In July 22nd, after the incident, the Ministry of environmental protection issued a notice on the issue of pollutant emission control and supervision not included in the pollutant discharge standards, calling for further clarifying responsibilities, tightening the system and strengthening monitoring.


Four responses


Concerned about the most sensitive product safety of consumers, the most famous brands in the world are those two "bright spots". The "fashion poison report" has been widely disseminated, and the public responses to clothing brands are different.


The first is positive attitude and commitment.

The brand is Puma, Nike and Adidas.

In July 26th, Puma publicly promised that it would eliminate all the toxic and harmful substances in its supply chain by 2020 and formulate a detailed action plan in the next eight weeks.

Then, in August 18th, Nike made the same commitment.

After the two big competitors openly responded to Greenpeace's "non-toxic future", in August 31st, Adidas promised to phase out its supply chain by 2020.

product

All toxic and harmful substances are released and a specific action plan is announced within seven weeks.


The second is more positive but has no definite plan.

The brand is crocodile, G-star and UNIQLO.

Zhang Kai said that although these companies have made a more positive statement on their website, they have not promised to eliminate all toxic and hazardous substances, or have no definite timetable.


The third is not to admit.

The brand is YOUNGOR, Cathay Pacific and Lining.

On the evening of July 13th, YOUNGOR issued a public statement at the first time, indicating that the company's sewage discharge is in line with international standards and national standards.

He also said that the water samples had been sent to the international authoritative environmental monitoring agency, Switzerland SGS company for testing, and no toxic and harmful substances were found.

On July 14th, Cathay Pacific's official website stated that the report was in serious discrepancy with the actual situation.

In August 22nd, Lining said in his official website that Lining had sent the sample products to the international authoritative detection agencies SGS and CTI for NPE content testing in July 22nd. The results were all in line with the EU REACH standard.


The fourth is to ignore it.

The brand is Metersbonwe, Semir and YISHION.

Although the products of these three brands are not in the list of brands, however, in report 1, there is evidence that Zhongshan Guotai dyeing and finishing Co., Ltd. is a supplier of these three enterprises.

Zhang Kai told reporters that all three companies received fax from green peace on the report, but they did not give any response.


In addition, H&M's response to the international brand mentioned in the report is: "we are willing to work together to eliminate the toxic and harmful chemical emissions". Abercombie&Fitch believes that both suppliers and suppliers have shared responsibilities on this issue. CalvinKlein's parent company PVH said that the company's supply chain process has a certain impact on the environment and will make efforts to change it.


misty mystery


There are many controversies surrounding the two reports of Greenpeace.


NPE is widely used in the textile industry? This seems to be a good answer, but it is hard to see the truth in the interview.


"Will there be any error in the test result?" Zhejiang

Spin

Xia Jianming, director of dyeing and Finishing Technology Research Institute of Institute of clothing technology, was quite doubtful when interviewed by our newspaper reporter. He thought that it seemed "impossible" to detect NPE over these famous brand clothes.

Because large enterprises are very environmentally friendly, most textile chemicals producers are unlikely to use NPE containing raw materials.

At present, dyes and auxiliaries are required to register and issue inspection reports as required, especially export products.

For example, NPE, NP, many countries have restrictions or even banned.

Besides, now NPE has many alternatives, the cost is only high 5-10%, and enterprises can generally afford it.

However, domestic market control is not strictly exported, and unqualified products are hard to avoid.


At the three major textile exhibitions not long ago, textile companies said they would rarely use NPE.

However, after this incident, some enterprises and experts believe that NPE is very common in textile production, though it will not directly harm the human body, but it will have adverse effects on the environment.


After the report was released, YOUNGOR textile industrial city and Zhongshan Guotai dyeing and finishing Co., Ltd. emphasized in the statement that the company has obtained the certification of Oeko-Tex100, the most authoritative eco environmental friendly textile in the world.

The reporter interviewed the certified Chinese representative, TEDA (China) Textile Inspection Co., Ltd., and its certification engineer Wang Fang said that the Oeko-Tex100 certificate only indicated that there were no toxic or harmful substances or toxic or harmful substances in the textiles which had been certified for Oeko-Tex100.

Exceeding standard

It can not prove the ecological level of other products of the enterprise, but also does not show the level of the enterprise's environmental management in the three wastes discharge.


After the release of the report, many consumers thought that wearing NPE clothing would be harmful to the human body, Zhang Kai explained, which is a misreading.

NPE poisons the human body through the food chain. That is, the textile and garment enterprises use NPE in the production process, then enter the sewage treatment plant or the environment. Consumers may also discharge residual NPE into the water in the laundry process, and eventually enter the river to decompose into NP.

NP can be accumulated in tissues of fish and other organisms and amplified by the food chain.

In recent years, studies have shown that NP is also found in the human body.

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