Exclusive Interview With Designer Rick Owens: Exceptional People Make Excellent Fashions.

< p > B= world clothing shoes and hats net RO=Rick Owens < /p >

< p > B: the fashion industry generally defines you as Gothic designer or rock and roll designer. Do you seem to have some comments on these titles? < /p >

< p > RO: I doubt that people's understanding of my design as rock and roll fashion may be related to my long hair. I originally wanted to make my design more elegant.

I have always wanted to do some decadent tailoring, which is mainly influenced by the advanced customization of Madame Gres and Vionnet, and their clothes must have made many people feel too advanced when they just appeared.

On this basis, I use rough texture and collapse lines to reflect the frustration and fragility of punk rock and grunge rock, which represent two far-reaching stages in the history of music. Everyone in this era should feel empathy.

So, well, in the final analysis, my design is really inspired by rock and roll, but they are also inspired by Wagner and Debussy.

< /p >

< p > B:Net-a-Porter describes that you have a unique vision for the fashion inspired by rock. "You created your own fashion brand in Losangeles in 1994, but until 2002, after winning the new fashion awards of the American Fashion Designers Association and moving the company to Paris, the brand really became active in the fashion world."

What did you do between 1994 and 2002?

< /p >

< p > RO: at the beginning of establishing my own brand, I put all my clothes in a baggage bag and then went to look for a better clothing store I know. It is no exaggeration to use "door-to-door selling". Of course, I know which store is better.

So I gradually had some business.

Then my design was seen by Andre Leon Talley in the window of Henri Bendel of New York tidal shop, and he introduced me to Vogue magazine.

Later, Vogue sponsored my first conference in New York.

I moved the company to Paris because my factory was located in Italy, and Paris was more tolerant of the design of the sky and the sky, so it was more appropriate to publish there.

In New York, people may only regard me as a freak.

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< p > B: what's the effect of moving to Paris on your design? < /p >

< p > RO: the show in Paris likes almost abnormal fashion.

I also like the pressure on the environment.

< /p >

< p > B: before you set up your own brand, you worked for many years in Losangeles's clothing company.

What did you learn from that experience? < /p >

< p > RO: during that time, I was trained repeatedly and accurately, which benefited my whole life.

< /p >

< p > B: when you are young, are you most likely to be attracted by that kind of man or woman? < /p >

< p > RO: I wanted to be a mixture of Cher and Joe Dallesandro; if you had seen me before, you would know that I was pretty close.

I've always liked the way Divine and Bowie and Dietrich shave their brows.

< /p >

< p > B: when you knew Michelle Lamy, did you fall in love at first sight? Is she your goddess? < /p >

< p > RO: it may be a bit exaggerated to use the goddess to describe it, but she did have a great attraction for me at that time.

It took us two years to get started, but that was more than 20 years ago.

I can't imagine myself being with others now.

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< p > B: which part of the job do you like best in designing clothes? < /p >

< p > RO: I like a month before the opening of a show. At that time, all the ideas were glued together, and the whole effect began to show up and showed the potential to become the best of my conferences. It could integrate the previous series and pform it into an unassailable expression of beauty. Of course, I knew it would never happen, but I like to make such a fantasy.

< /p >

< p > B: you once said that you like studying retail very much.

What attracts you most to the retail industry? < /p >

< p > RO: the retail market embodies the real reaction of real people to real clothes, and the media is only a game of political manipulation.

Although both have their own reasons for existence, I prefer feedback and affirmation from the retail industry.

< /p >

< p > B: why do we choose the Palais de Tokyo as the venue for holding the conference? < /p > Tokyo.

< p > RO: This is my favorite decorative art style building in Paris. It is large, solemn, symmetrical, and graceful. In addition, I can walk directly from my home.

< /p >

< p > B: how do you develop a series of designs every new season? < /p >

< p > RO: there seems to be no specific starting action or procedure, because design is a process of continuous accumulation.

Each series will affect and extend to the next, and all the series will be a large series, and will never end, will only be divided into chapters.

To be specific, I always pay attention to shape and proportion, and try to put them in the right place.

< /p >

< p > B: what are your daily work arrangements? < /p >

< p > RO: my bedroom is on the five floor of my house, so I go downstairs every day, finish the mail on the terrace, and then go to the office on the two floor for a meeting.

After the meeting, I would go through the Dursley palace to the gym in the opera square, and then walk home for lunch, take a nap, and then start working until I have dinner at around 10 in the evening.

I go to Italy's factory every week for a week.

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< p > B: where does your inspiration come from? Can you get inspiration from your dream? < /p >

< p > RO: if I know how to get inspiration from a dream, I will master it and make use of it.

But most of my inspiration comes from architecture books, and works like Marcel Breuer, Pierre Chareau, Le Corbusier and Josef Hoffmann can give me inspiration.

< /p >

< p > B: what kind of environment can inspire you most? < /p >

< p > RO: an empty, air-conditioned white room.

< /p >

< p > B: what changes have taken place in the design direction of Rick Owens brand in the past few years? < /p >

< p > RO: in the early years, I may prefer to reflect the style of destruction and collapse, but now I gradually turn to a utopian idealistic fantasy, a doomed daydream.

< /p >

< p > B: can you share some movies you like? < /p >

"P" > RO:Cecille B. Demille "Cleopatra"; Nazimova's "Sha Lemei (Salome)"; Ken Russell "Devil (The Devils)"; "Star", "the Pink Flamingo"; the "starring flamingos"; the "night watchman"; "the song of the big tree".

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< p > B: how do you keep your figure? If your body is not like this now, do you think the fashion you design will look different? < /p >

< p > RO: I have insisted on going to the gym for 15 years. For me, it has become like brushing teeth and is a routine procedure for personal image.

Compared with clothes, exercise can fill my mental gap.

I can't imagine what it would be like if I were another body.

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P > B: are you a perfectionist? < /p >

P > RO: Unfortunately, yes, and there is a growing trend with age.

< /p >

< p > B: we have also collected some questions from Chinese netizens for you.

Leslie wants to ask you, will you wear other designer's clothes? If so, can you give me a few examples? < /p >

< p > RO: the only designer dress I bought in my life is a sports jacket of Helmut Lang, which was in the 80s of last century, but I didn't wear it once.

In addition, I also made a leather pants in Chrome Hearts, like a vagabond, who did not wear it for five years. It was also in 80s.

Now, I wear the same style of clothes every day: T-shirts, collar sweaters, and a pair of baggy shorts, all from my own design, like uniforms.

I like the discipline, self-restraint and moderation of uniform.

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< p > B: netizen Paris asks, will you cooperate with H&M? Why? < /p >

< p > RO: at present, I concentrate on my own design, and no other cooperation is suitable.

It is not that I do not agree with this kind of cooperation, but it is not suitable for me.

< /p >

< p > B: netizens June Solstice asked, where did you make those nice shoes? < /p >

< p > RO: Italy, I can only tell you so much. My factory is absolutely confidential. I hope it will only work for me.

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< p > B: have you ever thought of adopting bright colors in design? Yang Da Wei asked.

< /p >

< p > RO: maybe in the future, but I don't believe I would really do that.

There are already various colors on the market, and my favorite color is quite quiet.

But I also appreciate the near brutal use of colors like YSL and Lacroix.

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< p > B:Fydanny wants to know how you describe the working relationship with stylist Panos Yiapanis.

< /p >

< p > RO: just like four times a year, three days each time.

I think people will be surprised if they see how crazy and immature we are at work.

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< p > B: will you receive apprentices? "Rasion asked.

< /p >

< p > RO: I tried, but what I need more is space.

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< p > B:Rita would like to ask you if you like Joan of Arc? < /p >

< p > RO: of course, I love idealism, especially when it is led astray or ends in tragedy.

< /p >

< p > B: the last question comes from netizen Vmama: can fat wear your design? < /p >

< p > RO: I am glad they can.

My design was originally created for everyone.

< /p >