Yuan Xinlin, School Of Art, Changzhou University: Chinese Elements In Fashion Design
Clothing is a necessity of human life, and it is also a collection of goods, spirit and material life.
The artistry of clothing not only satisfies people's basic physiological needs for dressing, but also meets people's need for artistic aesthetics.
Fashion design has dual attributes of culture and industry. It has both function and aesthetic function. It is displayed by designers in the form of artistic beauty, which is different from other works of art in clothing.
Looking at the world's clothing industry, China
clothing
An important position, China is a big country in garment industry. The garments made in China are continuously pported to all parts of the world. The culture, concept and design of Chinese clothing are favored.
China's costume design has shifted from product design emphasizing purely artistic details to product design emphasizing market awareness, meeting people's needs and pmitting brand capability. Following the combination of innovation and inheritance, the design and expression method of Chinese elements with cultural details has been excavated. On the basis of inheriting the national tradition, it has not lost the national characteristics, closely combines the advantages of traditional clothing with modern fashion elements, and encourages the development of clothing brand development strategy.
"Chinese element" was first put forward at an advertising industry gathering in 2004, and was officially sung in the 2006 China's "international competition for Chinese elements". Originally, it aims at advocating the use of national techniques in advertising creativity, and its connotation is more and more abundant today.
In the course of the development and evolution of the Chinese nation, the Chinese people create, inherit and develop, reflecting the Chinese humanistic spirit, folklore psychology and cultural achievements all belong to the "Chinese elements", including the traditional Chinese culture, customs and habits, the typical symbols, colors, images, techniques and techniques of the humanities and history.
Xiangyun and Taiji, such as graphics, ink painting and calligraphy, calligraphy and painting art, blue and white porcelain and silk, are all traditional Chinese elements. Bird's nest, water cube and Qinghai Tibet Railway belong to modern Chinese elements.
China's scientific and technological progress and economic take-off have enhanced its international status and deepened its exchanges and cooperation with other countries. The "one belt and one way" initiative has attracted more and more attention from Chinese traditional culture, and Chinese elements are also popular with the people of all ethnic groups in the world, and gradually become the inspiration source of international fashion design.
More and more Chinese fashion designers consciously apply Chinese elements to costume design in their creation, so as to harmonized the national tradition and cultural artistic conception, inherit the national culture and spirit with the fashion design as the platform, combine tradition and modernity, convey the unique Chinese flavor, and let the Oriental feelings go to the world.
In recent years, the Chinese wind has gradually become active in the world fashion stage. Chinese style clothing has gradually come to the forefront of the international fashion industry, and Chinese elements have gradually become the vane of the fashion industry.
To explore the application of Chinese elements in costume design can be viewed from the design thinking, modeling and design of clothing.
Fabric
Design, pattern, color and technology.
After more than five thousand years of historical accumulation, Chinese civilization has formed its unique clothing philosophy and aesthetic standards. There are Buddhist thoughts led by color into the air, the Confucian doctrine of harmony between the mean and the Taoism.
Chinese traditional philosophy provides a universal reference for the application of Chinese elements in fashion design.
Many traditional Chinese clothing models reflect the theory of "Yin Yang and five elements", which are rigid and flexible, dynamic and quiet, sparse and dense, loose and tight, hidden and dew.
Influenced by the Chinese cultural context complementing Confucianism and Taoism, Chinese traditional costumes show an implicit, restrained and steady manner, such as the deep garments in the Qin and Han Dynasties, the coats in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the sweaters in the Tang Dynasty, and the robes of the Ming Dynasty.
Clothing is made up of plane, two-dimensional, and non construction style, and it is desalinated with the relationship of form. After wearing, it is full of flowing and flowing beauty, showing the detached and indifferent mood.
In order to adapt to the environment and suit people's life style, Hu clothing and mandarin jacket are all classic styles with symbolic characteristics.
The collar, the sleeve, the clasp and the buckle are all traditional Chinese clothing styles, showing the elegant and graceful bearing and profound details.
Silk, Luo, silk, satin and other elegant, comfortable, draped silk fabrics are famous for their brilliant colors, beautiful colors and superb weaving methods. They are the symbols of the East. Linen, yarn, brocade and blue calico are all rich in Chinese characteristics and unique charm.
The traditional Chinese patterns accumulated over a long period of development and evolution have their own times and regional characteristics. They are the most connotations of clothing art.
The twelve typical patterns, such as grain, dragon pattern and Oracle Bone Inscription, symbolize the royal dignity. The designs of plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum symbolize noble purity.
The color concept of Chinese clothing combines the concepts of nature, universe, ethics and philosophy, and has unique color culture. The red, yellow, blue, white and black colors originate from the five elements theory are regarded as positive colors and are the most distinguished colors in traditional costume colors.
Different colors have different symbolism and convey different emotional colors.
China's traditional crafts have a long history. Weaving, embroidery, plate, roll, inlay, emplacement, dyeing and painting are all commonly used techniques in clothing. Four embroidery techniques, Suzhou embroidery, Shu embroidery, Xiang embroidery and Guangdong embroidery, are various, colorful and exquisite.
Folding, curling, winding, stitching and stitching make the single fabric become rich and layered.
The rapid growth of China's economy has not only attracted the attention of the world, but also awakened the world's thinking and attention to the value of Chinese culture.
Chinese elements are embedded in modern design thinking and methods, and echoing and merging with art, inject new vitality into fashion design.
Chinese red dress, Long Fengpao, crane clothing, peacock clothes and other traditional Chinese culture clothing to the international stage, has a great role in promoting the domestic garment design industry.
Chinese elements are condensed and loaded with the traditional cultural spirit, which is combined with the visual impact in modern fashion design, giving viewers an artistic conception or moving, resulting in the resonance of ideas and ideas, so that visitors can appreciate the essence of Chinese elements and appreciate the unique charm of Chinese elements.
(this article is a Jiangsu Provincial Social Science Fund Project "the research on the reconstruction of modern clothing decoration language") (17YSD001).
(author: Changzhou University Art College, Changzhou University Jiangsu intangible cultural heritage research base)
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