2019 Spring And Summer Fashion Week -- "Gender" And "Rebellion"

So far，

It seems that there is no turning around.

Topic.

The factor of rebellion has been flowing in the history of fashion circles.

Vivian Westwood has attracted much attention since the 70s of last century because of its rebellious and personalized design style. In the spring of Dior 2017, the Slogan Slogan, which is written as "white should all be feminist" (we should all be feminists), is also popular among fashion brands in recent years. Designers have written their own ideas on white, and made voice through fashion.

But in the past half month, people in New York and London have seen more rebellion than ever before in the 2019 spring and summer fashion week. Many designers have expressed their views on "gender" and "rebellion" with costumes and shows.

American novelist Jeffrey Eugenides once said, "sex is a physiological issue, and gender is a cultural issue." for gender cultural issues, Losangeles designer Marco Marco focuses on the sexual minorities in this week's New York fashion week. The 34 models launched by fashion show are all pgender.

"I want to create a platform for praising the pgender body, which is an opportunity for them to be ignored, and also to make people find that pgender is beautiful," Marco told digital media Mic.

Designers such as Vivienne Westwood continue to go deep into the neutral or sexless style in the last two years in fashion design, expressing "clothes are clothes, and the concept of two yuan for men and women is too boring" through the design of fuzzy gender.

So we saw the difference between men's wear and women's clothing in the latest season of Vivienne Westwood. They saw the boys in high heels and girls in baggy jeans. They didn't care about sex. They looked cool.

There are also designers like Michael Halpern who explore women's strength. He told fashion show in London Fashion week that the latest season of Halpern design was inspired by his grandmother, a fashionable woman who fought for women's rights in the 60s of last century.

"The debate on women's rights in that era is constantly evolving. People in that era are working hard for a better future. Now we are facing a dangerous situation, that is, to return to the world that grandmother once rebelled against."

Michael said at the fashion show.

Imran Amed, founder of Business of Fashion, said in an interview with an interface reporter that in the past year, the movement of Metoo has had a great impact on fashion circles.

In this season's fashion announcement in New York and London, designers choose to make their own voice with clothes.

and

There may be many reasons for their rebellion, but there are also differences in clothing.

Riccardo Tisci, the new creative director who has just taken over Burberry, is famous for her distinctive and subversive design. His participation is widely interpreted as a symbol of Burberry's opening up a new chapter of the brand.

In July, Tisci also praised Vivienne Westwood's rebellion and punk spirit on Instagram, and announced the joint launch of the capsule series with her.

After the Burberry debut of Tisci, which was widely watched by the outside world, it was found that he was more conservative than the latest Burberry, but he could still see his ambitions from the application of the new prints and classical fabrics on the fabrics.

The elements of street and punk wind are not absent, but are not deliberately emphasized, but are exposed on the details of handbags, windbreaker and other items.

Tisci shows his changes in Burberry in a subtle way, and this is only the beginning.

In addition to the new creative director's rebellion against big names, some designers expressed their rebellion against social reality through clothing.

African American designer Kerby Jean-Raymond used clothing to depict the images of African Americans who had never experienced racial discrimination in the fashion show of Pyer Moss this week in New York fashion week.

On the clothes designed by Jean-Raymond, the black father embraced his child lovingly, and the Negro newlyweds happily walked with a basket of flowers.

He said in fashion releases that this is the normal life of African Americans in his heart.

It looks only related to beauty.

In fact, it has never stopped discussing social issues.

For this season's New York and London Fashion Week, this season's "gender" and "rebellion" trend will continue for a while.