Recovery And Development Of Turkish Wool Textile Industry

Turkey is seeking to restore its ability to produce high-quality textile fabrics to adapt to the changes brought about by the new crown epidemic. Paul Cochrane reports.

Istanbul textile and raw materials exporters association（ İ TH İ B) Turkey is the world's fifth largest textile supplier, with an annual export value of 12 billion US dollars. However, Turkey has been struggling to regain its position as an important supplier of high-end and luxury fabrics to make up for sales lost to Chinese competitors due to costs.

Turkish high-quality textile producers, hit by supply disruptions during the new crown outbreak, are now focusing on offshore outsourcing demand, which is growing in Europe as brands consider diversified sourcing. In fact, Turkish manufacturers are counting on European demand for more environmentally sustainable textiles to boost exports.

Cevdet karahasano, former vice president of tgsd and boss of pameks, which produces high-end fabrics for Italian brands such as Armani and RAF Lauren in the United States ğ "Turkey has a very strong position in silk production, but due to competition from China, Turkey is no longer a (Major) supplier," Lu said

He also said that Turkey "no longer has a strong strength" in producing luxury fabrics such as wool or cashmere“ Only a few factories are producing wool, about 1000 tons a year, but they are mainly used to make blankets, home textiles or cross knitted fabrics, "he said. Turkey is hard to compete with China in price, while silk and linen producers in Italy and France still dominate the production of high-end products respectively. But Turkish companies with a vision for the future have successfully opened up a market segment for silk, flax, wool and organic cotton.

Mert Ipek, headquartered in Birgi, near Izmir, western Turkey, produces about 40000 metres of silk and 20000 kilograms of linen a month, 90% of which are exported as fabrics and 10% as garments. The company imports flax thread from France and Belgium, yarn from China, and then weaves these materials into fabrics.

In recent years, there has been strong demand for the company's high-end fabrics, with sales increasing 225% in 2018 and 2019“ If there is no outbreak, we will have a growth rate of at least 50% in 2020, "said Tahir Mert, general manager of Mert Ipek“ In the first five months of 2021, we achieved the same level as that in 2019. As for linen, sales will be much higher next summer. "

According to EU trade data, Turkey's exports were hit by the epidemic last year, with demand in the EU, the largest buyer's market for textiles, plummeted. Imports of woven fabrics made of wool and other animal fibers fell by 31.8% and 22.4% respectively. "Due to the uncertainty caused by the new crown epidemic, people's behavior and buying habits have changed, and customers' purchasing desire and luxury consumption have declined," said Mustafa s ü rmeg ü Z, general manager of Y ü NSA, a leading fabric manufacturer based in kirghiskoy, Marmara

He also said polyester, nylon and recycled polyester are in greater demand than high-quality fabrics blended with pure wool or natural fibers.

In addition to clothing fabrics and worsted yarns, y ü NSA also produces interior and home furnishing fabrics. Its complex has a production capacity of 4500 tons of worsted yarn, and can spin 10 million meters of fabric each year. Two thirds of the pure wool and wool blended fabrics (cashmere, silk, cotton and viscose) produced by Y ü NSA are exported.

S ü rmeg ó Z said that while demand for high-end fabrics for clothing had declined, home consumers' spending on home furnishings increased during the outbreak, which meant that "home textiles were hardly affected by the crisis.".

Turkey exported 2.49 billion US dollars of home textile products last year, according to the tetsiad. Exports to Germany, the United States and the United Kingdom accounted for 36.33% of total exports, amounting to US $904.8 million, while exports to Italy and the Netherlands were US $107 million and US $102.7 million respectively.

　　Karahasano ğ Lu said that due to the new crown epidemic, many manufacturers have adopted a "wait-and-see" attitude in investing and upgrading machinery and equipment, and the devaluation of the Turkish Lira has made imports more expensive. The Turkish government complicated the issue by sacking the country's central bank governor in March.

However, with the opening up of the European economy after mass vaccination, some manufacturers continue to invest in the hope that sales will improve. Following other investments in the finishing, weaving and quality control sectors, y ü NSA spent 2.3 million euros last year to modernize its production line.

"Despite some setbacks from the new crown outbreak, we expect demand for quality fabrics and fibers to improve in the medium to long term," s ü rmeg ó Z said.

　　Karahasano ğ Lu also expects investment in fine wool and cotton production to increase as demand for luxury goods rebounds in Europe this year. "Luxury consumers need to go to the store and touch the fabric themselves, so it's not suitable for online transactions," he said

He also said that considering its good sustainable development prospects, the fabric made of cellulose fiber from Lanjing is expected to become more prominent. Selcuk iplik recently invested 18 million euros to produce Tencel fabric at its factory in Gaziantep, eastern Turkey.

The Turkish product is a recycled cellulose fabric made of recycled cotton linter, and its sales are expected to increase due to its biodegradable and vegan certified environmental qualification. " Karahasano ğ "It's a sustainable luxury brand," Lu said. Turkey's largest producer of spandex is ipeker of bursa. Mert Ipek also produces copper ammonia wire. The expected growth in demand for more environmentally friendly fabrics will also drive the production of organic cotton, linen and silk in Turkey“ Our 100% organic cotton and flax are dedicated to our exclusive customers and will be more important in the market in the future, "Mert said.

During the epidemic period, the demand for silk of independent brands emerging on the Internet was also increasing They use silk for home textiles and casual wear, and we sell a lot of silk for pillowcases and masks, "he said.

Mert also said luxury consumers' aversion to synthetic fibers helped stabilize wool sales. His plant uses 15 micron Australian Merino wool, as well as organic wool purchased from Germany.

"In the European market, they use German wool to attract consumers," he said The company also developed natural dyes for wool“ Wool has not grown as much as silk or linen, but it will be more popular in the near future. "

The company's export focus is on northern Europe, mainly the UK, Germany, France and Scandinavia“ We are waiting for the right time to enter the US market, "Mert revealed." there is still a lot of potential in Europe. "

While Europe remains the most important textile export market, s ü rmeg ó Z said the United States, Russia and the Far East were becoming the main target markets for the Turkish textile industry. In order to compete better internationally, "Turkish fabric exporters need to focus on strengthening their global distribution network in addition to their production and design capabilities," he said

From: twist August / September 2021 (issue 114)

(source: China Wool Textile Industry Association)