Paris Gauding Fashion Week: Showing Tradition And Remodeling

According to the official schedule, 26 brands, including Jean Paul Gaultier, schiaparellis, chanel and Balenciaga, will bring offline shows.

Since the mid-1950s, it has experienced ups and downs since its birth. Today, it is not only the pronoun of exquisite luxury and extreme craft, but also the pioneer of contemporary aesthetics and fashion creativity.

　　Schiaparellis

As the first big show of Gaoding fashion week, Schiaparelli brings a new look in autumn and winter 2022. This season is no longer like the past few seasons with a large number of metal elements to interpret some sharp female image, replaced by a breakthrough gorgeous, elegant, satin skirt, complex flowers, with the body swaying beads.

Creative director Daniel roseberry continues the surrealism design concept of Elsa Schiaparelli, the founder of the brand. It integrates design elements such as tassels, metal, embroidery, human organs, flowers and grapes, and matches with wide brimmed hats with different shapes to create a unique dramatic appearance and present a delicate and gorgeous fashion feast.

The highlight of the show is a red heart high standing dress. Daniel roseberry integrates the heart and blood vessels into the design, and matches it with the positive red which can't be distracted. It is like a blooming red rose.

Satin and velvet material outlines charming lines, sexy and exquisite, each frame is a dynamic art.

　　 Christian Dior

Dior 2022 autumn / winter Gaoding series is a cooperative series of creative director Maria Grazia chiuri and Ukrainian artist Olesia trofymenko. With the theme of "tree of life", it integrates Ukrainian folk embroidery elements, connects different religions and cultures, and interprets classical and romantic styles.  

The dress is decorated with stitched lace and is made of bronze and black lace and embossed lace. The elegant and flexible long skirt is made of silk chiffon fabric, which is combined with exquisite pleating technology to fit the body shape. Hand woven fabric creates a frill free look and presents precious irregular texture on the dress. Embroidered windbreaker of silk or cotton with loose silhouette also complements the long dress skirt.

　　Chanel

Chanel's Gaoding series this season was released at the trier de Paris Equestrian Center. As an extension of the last season's equestrian world series, creative director Virginia Viard has re colored various lace elements through inlaying and reprocessing, replacing the previous forms of embroidery.

The style with too many details doesn't necessarily have aesthetic feeling. Virginia Viard in the second half of the series shows the dress style with gauze as the medium and partial decoration. These white or black small dresses, which are both soft and playful and sexy, seem to bring people to the retro ball scene, fully showing the elegant and beautiful posture of the wearer.

The wedding dress is also presented in the form of white strapless and pleats. The pleats are fine and the details are emphasized. The dresses are decorated with shawls and bows, which are elegant and casual.

　　Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen returned to Paris Gaoding fashion week again after a long-term absence, bringing the autumn and winter Gaoding series show in 2023, and ushered in the 15th anniversary of the establishment of the brand with 16 sets of clothing.

Iris van Herpen's design is a vivid interpretation of the art of advanced customization from both a craft and a technical point of view, and this season is no exception. Taking "metamorphology" as the theme of the Gaoding show, Daphne's dynamic sculpture in the center of the show is surrounded, and the fashion show shuttles between reality and virtual.

The designer will continue to show the perfect shape of the body with the perfect fit of 3D fabric and technology. In terms of fabric, silk is used to create a light and elegant shape, which adds a bit of dreaminess to the design style with full sense of future.

　　Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier has invited Olivier rousteing, creative director of Balmain, as a guest designer in this autumn and winter Gaoding series.

As a guest designer, Olivier rousteing integrates personal colors into the theme of the brand and boldly depicts this fantastic idea belonging to fashion. This season begins with men's wear. The cross-cultural elements of African tribal style such as tattoos and perforated nose rings break through the aesthetic limit, paying tribute to Jean Paul Gaultier's spring ready-made clothing series in 1994. The design of tight tapered corset, wound bandage and thick soled shoes makes the aesthetic style of combining hardness and softness meet here and become the pronoun of individuality.  

　　 Balenciaga 　

As the 51st Gaoding series of Balenciaga and the second series of demna gvasalia, this season can be said to be very amazing.

This season, Gao Ding started with the classic elements in Balenciaga brand archives. Demna gvasalia introduced the new Japanese limestone based chloroprene rubber diving fabric into fashion production. It also used 3D printing technology to complete shoulder pads and zipper details inspired by diving suits, This is the continuation of the founder Crist ó BAL Balenciaga's basic idea of constantly innovating fashion based on the times.

The whole series also integrates cross-border cooperation. For example, the polyurethane coated mask in accessories is eye-catching, which is developed by the Mercedes AMG F1 application science department of Mercedes Benz Grand Prix Ltd. This department has always been committed to the application of aerospace and racing power technology. The face mask combined with fashion design has been tested for several months, which perfectly combines streamline, anti fogging and air permeability.

The wedding dress is made of 250 meters long gauze of different materials. It pays homage to the collected patterns. The embroidery process takes 7500 hours. It uses 25 types of flash beads and beads, including 70000 crystals, 80000 silver leaves and 200000 sequins. The integration of traditional technology with technological innovation, whether fabric or design concept, has expanded new ideas for Gaoding fashion to the times.

When it comes to Gaoding, the first thing most people think of is luxury. The concept of Gao Ding was born in 1858. In that year, a fashion house opened on Heping Road in Paris, France. The owner was Charles Frederick worth from England. There were some dresses that had been made in the shop. The shop owner sewed the trademark "worth & bobergh" to these dresses.

But with the advent of the post social media era, Haute Couture began to move towards the poles. On one side are the most expensive haute couture fashions, i.e. gowns and ready to wear in traditional forms (like Chanel, Dior, Armani prive, Valentino).

Designers on the other side are trying to transcend traditional concepts and reshape the meaning of "advanced customization", such as iris van harpen, who gives life to fabrics, Balenciaga, who integrates technology and technology, and Schiaparelli, who are more skilled in fabric innovation and expression of visual impact. The two schools are undergoing a fierce evolution, the latter trying to tease the audience's emotions, which is different from the mainstream trend.

It is these unique works that let us see that today's Gaoding is neither a basic tailor-made, nor a simple craftsmanship, nor a superficial jewel. In the face of high-end fashion, the high-end fashion designer's sense of existence is determined by the high-end fashion style and the noisy market.